Toshiba Satellite Pro 6000 Doesn’t power on.

Fixed!

Toshiba has a poor design on the Satellite Pro internally, and not just the 6000 according to a search of the Web, but the fix is easy for someone with surface mount soldering skills. The fix is NOT for the novice, but at least one repair shop this unit was sent to did not know the fix even though I told them where the problem was. I did not have the tools at the time to repair it and this company (Robert Mowe/Laptop Repair) advertises that it costs zero if they can’t fix it. Well, they charged me two hours labor ($150) to return this without fixing it. I since acquired the tools and repaired it. This page is being composed on that very same Toshiba Laptop! While I have applied this to 3 other laptops, it does not mean this technique will fix yours. Even if the problem is the same, there is no guarantee that this procedure will work for you or execute correctly. This information is provided as just that: information on what I did to solve this wide spread problem. Toshiba received a class action suit over their Floppy Drives, I would think there would be one on this as the problem is real and is a design problem.

The tools needed:

Very fine - temperature controlled soldering iron
Dental pick or similar fine-tip tool
A small jewelers screwdriver or small torox driver
A small Phillips screwdriver

The problem:

Toshiba places the power supply/system board connector right under the right side of the left mouse click button, right where maximum flexing occurs. This eventually breaks a contact of this micro 80 pin connector from the system board and the symptoms are intermittent power on, screen crashes during normal operation, or no power up at all. You can cause this by lifting the laptop from the left or right-front corner causing this board to flex. Toshiba could do what others did. Change the design and location and/or change the connector, as they do not use all 80 for individual signals, but tie many together in groups of 4 or 5 for protection (if one connection fails, the one next to it works) and for current requirements. Ground, +5, +3 and ground are ones with many connections. These could have fit on a smaller pin count and physically larger connector with pins, such as that on the battery eliminating this problem.

The technique to fix it:

First, take the laptop apart. To do this:

· Remove DVD drive

· Remove Battery

· Remove the keyboard by popping the thin plastic strip above the F-keys and the two screws at the upper edge above the keyboard. Note these are B-4’s (Rounded head short). Tip up the keyboard and remove the ribbon cable by lifting the ends of the connector to unlock the connector and pulling the ribbon cable out.

· Disconnect the two speaker cables at the top left. One is a 3-pin connector with a blue and white wire and the other is a 2-pin connector with a red and white wire.

· Disconnect the display connector, a many-pin connector to the right of the speaker cables.

· Remove the two F-4 (Flat-head short) screws from the rear under the connector flip-down flap.

· Remove all screws from the bottom except those holding covers on with one exception: Remove cover with Torox screw and untangle wire inside. Put cover back on when this wire is free. Note that the screw size is marked on the cover at all locations.

· Be sure to remove the screw that is recessed where the DVD drive was removed.

· Gently lift the top cover and remove the mouse ribbon cable from the connector under it.

· Now, remove the top and place it aside

· Remove two screws from the power supply. One is near the top left of the module and the other is near the right edge where the thermister is. Note the location of this thermistor for reassembly.

· Take the Dental Pick and gently try to move pins on the 80 pin connector at the system board. If any pin moves, it is broken loose and will need to be resoldered by heating the area and not adding any solder. Note any connection that moves. I have found those along the side facing the far side of the system board break first.

· Carefully, with a fine tip and connector soldering techniques re-solder the pins.

· To Test, simply place the power supply in position and press the power switch (not the plastic switch at the top left – that is the display closed switch, but the small silver button further to the right) and watch the leds at the front edge. You should have two greens and the HD led should flash momentarily. It may go further if there is not a bios error from no keyboard, or may stop with a bios message (that you can’t see because the display is not connected)

· If the test worked, you can reassemble the laptop. If not, recheck for solder bridges and shorts. Use the magnifying glass. If you see anything between pins, use solder wick to remove. If you applied solder, it is too much. Any solder added is too much.

· Now, put the top on and connect the mouse connector by lifting the ends of the connector, sliding the ribbon cable in and then closing the connector by pressing down on the two connectors. Put the corner screws in. Now, the small wire you untwisted under the cover with the torox screw can be pushed into the open area inside that compartment. Connect the speaker and display connectors. Plug in the keyboard ribbon cable using the same technique used on the mouse connector, being careful not to separate parts of the cable.

· Test the laptop. If it works, continue, else correct the problem. If the On switch does not work, the speaker cables may be out of place and the top cover will have to come off. The wires follow in a guide on the underside of the top cover. If the keyboard does not work but it turns on, the ribbon cable is not in place. Correct. Same for the mouse.

· If all is well, replace all bottom screws noting their type. Replace the rear screws and the keyboard screws. Pop in the plastic strip noting that the two slots that show are on the upper edge.

· Pray that the next laptop you buy has a better connector.

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